Adam, Which installation method is best? I don’t feel comfortable installing tile over the hollow-sounding skim coat surface. The subfloor is only 1/2″ plywood. Rob. Once I decide to remove enough tile and cut a hole in the wood to access the switch, how will I replace the removed tile with some type of wooden access door. See middle of October 18th ‘Allen’ posting above for toilet/tile answer. My husband has gone under the house and determined that our joist spans are HUGE! baring in mind box of porcelain says net weight 33kg(72 pound) for 1.75m2(18.8 sq.foot) i.e 3.83 pound/sq.foot which is adding around 3300 pound to second level. Now after having installed the 1/4 inch backerboard i have realized the floor still has a few valleys and hills, is there a way to fix this? I’m worried that your minimum specs 5/8 + 1/2 would put my new kitchen floor too high from the surrounding hardwood floors. Backed by his 40-year remodeling career, Danny served as the home improvement expert for CBS’s The Early Show and The Weather Channel for more than a decade. The floors are finished in inch thick OSB, on joists placed 8 inches apart throughout. It’s 10′ by 19′. I have to lay down a floating wood floor and also a tile floor that will meet up in two area. My husband & I are neither physically able to do it but must so what is the easiest way to do it? The tile person said it would but not much? I plan on using 1/4″ HardieBacker as a subfloor for the tile. Hi Ed, I was surprised it was only 1/8″ thick. Hi Johnny, I have 3/4″ particle board over 1/2″ plywood sub floor. thanks in advance. Or is it easier to just take up all tile and start fresh? Cement backer board does not provide much in the way of support, its main function is to provide a stable surface that adheres will to tile. Can I even spread thinset on the 1 x 8 planks with the 1″ gaps present to apply the cement board to or would this cause a void under the cement board? Mark. From these comments, I think we need to test that Ditra System out. The second layer of plywood should be screwed to the first layer of plywood… The tore out the old tile today and there is a ton of old mortar. Good luck with your project! I want to add a screened in porch to my house I would like to know if I can use a plywood sub floor then cement backer then tile the porch? your floor joists are to be 16 on center ? thanks and keep up the good work . But what led me here is this: I have enclosed a space by which we now want make it a bathroom. Thanks. I just put an addition on my house now I’m going to finish my ensuite bathroom my question is do I put hardieboard over the entire sub floor or just where I’m going to tile the floor or do I put in under the shower and tub.thx. Currently there is just a layer of tiles on top a sheet of plywood on a built up platform. The fact that you are planning to grout the full room, i.e. Any advice you can give me would be great! Teresa. Is this okay to do? Any comments would be appreciated concerning my kitchen floor install. I am in the process of installing tiles in my kitchen floor. When we removed the linoleum, we found that there is wood subfloor under the majority of the floor that is in really good condition. I plan to use a latex-modified thinset & grout. … and if you’re wondering, we did not sue the township, small town, turns out it was a family member that made this shocking mistake, and would have lost his job, and he has 2 babies at home..so we opt to sell the home as a ‘camp’ and move on. Here is a nice adapter to offset a Reciprocating Saw blade – this will do the trick – there are less expensive ones out there. My first question is, can I add another 1/2″ plywood over the lower subfloor and will those two layers of 1/2″ plywood be sufficient strength? Absolutly wonderful, best thing I’ve ever done!! Also, do you think its ok that I am laying the tile directly to the subfloor (3/4 plywood)? A friend told me that I should use a layer of thinset between my backer board and subfloor to create a solid surface that will prevent tiles from loosening or cracking. Lay ditra on top and then install 13″x13″ tiles, that are 5/16″ thick. Lay down a vapour barrier overtop the concrete pad, then fasten 3/4 inch plywood using a Ramset to the concrete pad (through the vapor barrier), then install the heating system to the plywood, followed by applying the self-leveling mortar over top the heating system and plywood and finally installing the tiles over top that. after removing the base boards i noticed a small gap around the perimeter of the kitchen. I’m so glad to hear that, Ingrid! A mud sub floor over wire mesh and felt is the only way to ensure a proper foundation. Half-inch CBU’s are always used over wall studs; shower walls, tub surrounds, steam rooms, etc, never use the quarter-inch version on walls or ceilings. Also the room is a little office space 6’x8′. I’m with you, I’d stick with cement backer board since the adhesion between it and the tile should be much better than with plywood. Will we have to keep that with the tile, or can we just continue the tile pattern there? Thank you! How shall we go about it? We have taken old flooring out down to subfloor, installed OSB and have durock to lay. Then not to mention, he removed our island and put the ceramic tile under our dishwasher. With the plywood in place, install the backer board as you normally would. I hate the thought of putting carpeting back down, that’s just nasty! And the large tiles are also degrading and moving but not to the degree as the small ones. Good luck with your project! Hi Lloyd, My subfloor is made of 1 x 8 planks with approxiamately 1/2″ to 1″ of gap between each plank. The vinyl and Masonite, as least, will be removed and tile laid. I have plywood subflooring in my 55 year old brick home. Dear Judy, we would love to give you some advice on this. Oh. floor joists. I am putting 1/2″ hardieback backer board down, and I was curious how tight around the toilet flange I should be with the backer board. Hi Greg, Thanks again for any info, and I hope I helped with any questions about the Schluter Ditra System. We’ve got a roughly 2×10′ area in the kitchen down to the old wood floor in one spot, subfloor in another, and the bare joists at the last. Thanks for the feedback. We are wanting to put in 20″ poreclain tiles on our complete upstairs (4 bedrooms & 2 bathrooms) & on our stairs but we were told it is dangerous because of the weight, ceiling cracking, movement/shifting…even with backerboard. It currently has linoleum in there. The flooring was laid first and the cabinets on top. Introducing "One Thing": A New Video Series, The Spruce Gardening & Plant Care Review Board, The Spruce Renovations and Repair Review Board. Secondly, is 1/4 inch backerboard enough? The floor is solid and the plywood really held the tiles on strong. When I troweled it accross the wood it would at times not even stick, but just glide over without “damping” the board. Doe’s anyone see any problems with this? This site (and the computer) is new to me, I’m not sure where to ask my question but I’d like to ask how to paint over paneling. My old damaged subfloor is being ripped out. That’s unacceptable, besides my wife would kill me! Once it had hardened, the tile was laid using thin-set on top of it. The subfloor is 3/4 OSB. It would seem that the stove and refrigerator enclosures will be a half inch off now. Subflooring is plywood. They can float over a layer of thin foam sheeting or rubber underlayment. I also am wondering this about hte bathrooms, Remove the baseboards? tHANKS, i wanted to share that i used the schluter ditra membrane that was discussed in some of these posts. Mark, or what is this concrete layment i am hearing about? Personally, I wouldn’t worry with the adhesive. Wood with a darker brown stain and poly. How do we remove this sub-layer that extends underneath these cabinets without removing the cabinets? is it a foundation problem? We are about to start tiling in our kitchen and have a huge argument brewing! I was told to tile the whole floor before putting in the new cabinets. Second, cement board helps with filling. Thomas, I removed an engineered wood floor that was glued down to tile. I have removed all existing flooring and installed a new 3/4″ plywood after coating it with water sealant. I have been told to acid etch the tile first to help the thinset adhere to the old tile. Hi Duane, But, I’ve seen it at the Builder’s Show and, I have to admit, it looked pretty impressive. would it be structurally fit to add this weight. Hi Leslie, However, you need to make the call as to the quality of the existing floor the level of imperfection you are willing to tolerate. We are remodeling. First, cement backerboard is the perfect bonding surface for the thinset because of its porous texture. On top of that I put the tile on the original wood floor. I’m been bombarded with useful information scrolling from the top. Why do I need to use thinset between the subflooring and backerboard? Thanks for any advice you can give. Is motar needed between the OSB and Hardibacker? I prefer 1/2″ for tile floor, but I’ve seen 1/4″ work. I have been told by several other tile layers that this is my problem. There’s no way an 1/8″ subfloor over wood joists could support a tile floor. Floor is 3/4″ T&G ply, 2×10 joists 16″ OC. In addition to the structural properties of a mud sub floor it also takes out any imperfections in the existing floor. Kitchen was last remodeled about 30 years ago with ceramic tiles over plywood. Thanks so much! I have just finished ceramic tiling my 3 bathrooms. Baby has asthma). We are installing tile in our kitchen and getting ready to lay durarock. 2’x4′ in size how would i go about this, the hole is directly in front of the dryer on the fllor and all i can figure is using linoleum on the whole floor like the previous owner has done. Wow….that’s a lot of words! Thanks Jon. By the way, the same goes for that floating wood floor, Kenny. P.S. As it happens, I’ll be installing a tile floor tomorrow for a segment in our show and I’ll be using the Ditra. Hi Barry, Thanks. I have 3/4″ plywood floors. I’ve read through all the comments and I see that others have had the same issue I’m having, but I still don’t fully understand how the solution. I’m probably being totally paranoid. We are converting a garage to a room in a vacation home. backer board? We have radiant heat in our slab and are planning to lay porcelain tile over it. Problem is I do not want to rip all that out. Ditra is specifically made for floor tile applications. I just read about another product called Blanke-UNI-Mat PRO that seems like it would be wonderful for me to try out in my bathroom, kitchen, utility room, and entryway tile installations I am about to do. You should be able to fill an 1/8″ gap with caulking then paint it to match the trim. Same question as Hans Boerner asked on May 24th about laying external tile over a wooden deck, possibly using Ditra as a waterproofing underlayment over exterior plywood. Also, it seems that carpet is more appealing to most people when it comes to second floor (bedrooms and stairs), but since this is a rental property it is rather costly to continue replacing the carpet and the tile it is way more durable, suggestions? It’s currently covered with peel in stick vinyl squares and the floor underneath is old hardwood. I am worried about cracking of the tile from the bathroom being on the 2nd story and from the floor being on this platform. This will totally eliminate any potential dishwasher problems. It appears to be 2×6’s laid diagonally with a small space between them. They indicate only plywood or OSB are acceptable underneath their product. #2, when you say “laminate”, I’m making the assumption you have a “floating” floor system in which you should NEVER tile over. I am looking for a good, efficient way to get that top layer of OSB off so I can use a cement board then tile. I have explored and searched and have not had much luck from online publications I can find about this. Apparently, our builder installs 1/2″ plywood over the subfloor in all rooms except in the baths and says it does just as good a job of holding up as cement board. I’m confused, and I want to get this right! You should remove and replace any rotten wood before tiling. In order to make a more stable floor, the plan is to screw down 3/4″ plywood on top of the long leaf pine and 1/4″ hardibacker on top of that. Installed new 2″x6″, 16″ to the center using metal hanging brackets Hi there my husband and I are remodeling one bathroom and we are putting down heated floor. Want to tile my kitchen. Are they looking for the easy way out or is that true. Use 1 1/4-inch screws for 1/4-inch backerboard. Hi Doroteo, The green board will work, but I prefer backerboard. What do you suggest? Jerry, as long as the tile floor is clean, you don’t really have to acid etch it. I used an electric demo hammer to remove the tiles and it did a nice job but there are some very minor peaks and valleys in the floor. I haven’t priced them, but it’s worth looking into. Hi… My kitchen floor consists of a 1/2″ plywood sub floor, then another 5/8″ ‘sub floor’, then linoleum, then 1/4″ plywood, then some more linoleum, then vinyl square tiles. You can also rent an angle-style grinder with a small-diameter masonry cutter on it. Lay down ¾ inch exterior plywood and screw into the 2×3’s every 8 inches. Installed tiles Thinset is the wet base that you first trowel on the plywood to make the tile stick. Accounting for the tile I have reduced my drop into the room to 1/4″. Jackie, same question was answered several postings above yours.

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